Posts Tagged “Middle East”

With the weather turning wintery in Israel over the last few days – and more promised for this week – I wanted to tell you about a great service you may not know about. Dr. Barry Lynn’s Weather It Is is a weather forecasting service that gives a specific forecast for dozens of cities in Israel, usually much more accurate than the forecast you get on radio or TV.

I interviewed Dr. Lynn for the Jpost a few years ago, and he told me that the standard “one size fits all” weather forecast issued by the Israel Weather Service is the result of bad equipment, small budgets, and poor motivation (as in small salaries). The one perk the forecasters doget, it appears, is fame – the one on duty during prime radio hours gets to jabber with the hosts a little bit, but beyond that there’s little to attract talented meteorologists to a government job, he said.

By the way – weather forecasters do a lot more than just tell you whether you should take an umbrella when you leave the house. As I wrote then:

…improved and more accurate weather prediction could be a boon for many industries that need to wrestle the environmental elements in order to get work done. Take an electric company crew that needs to do major line work, for example. These guys get paid a huge hunk of change for field work, and if the company sends them out on a job, while they sit in the truck instead of working because a surprise electrical storm has made it too dangerous to work, the company – and, of course, its customers – end up footing that bill. An accurate weather prediction for the specific area in question is valuable information for the utility, says Dr. Lynn, and they’ll pay – as will oil and gas drillers, farmers, airports and a host of other industries and services.

When I spoke to Dr. Lynn, he mentioned that he was involved in forming some deals, and indeed he now has a general website where he advertises his services, and it appears he’s “weathering” the recssion. Meanwhile, he updates his Israel site on a regular basis. It’s interesting to see what the differences in weather are in various places in Israel during stormy times like these!

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Remember the startup contest, Exit’09? The one where the winner gets – would you believe it – a package worth $250,000? Well, we have a winner!

If you will recall (and if you don’t, the original article is here), Exit’09 was a contest to decide what Israel’s most promising startup was. Applicants submitted ideas, videos, and details to the judges, who decided whether or not they qualified for the contest; those that did survived by getting people to vote for them, with the top winners each week advancing to the finals. Eventually, there were only two companies left, and they participated in a “Big Brother” style internet broadcast, with web viewers able to watch them put together their final presentations, which the judges would then decide between, declaring one a winner.

And the winner? While you’d expect the people (and the judges’) choice to be a really sophisticated new web service, or groundbreaking piece of software, the idea that got the prize belongs to Penina First, a young lady from the town of Givat Ze’ev, who wants to organize an SMS alert system for odd job seekers and the people who need them to run errands.

Penina foresees a site called Day-Job (doesn’t seem to be in existence yet), where people looking for someone to do a short task – say, babysitting, filling in for an absent waiter or secretary, someone to do some housework, etc. – can search out a worker and hire them. Candidates who are members of the service get an SMS, and the first one to respond gets the job.

First says that the system is perfect for students, soldiers, etc., who can’t commit to a regular work schedule, but want to earn some extra money. Her sympathies are with the workers (she’s clearly “been there”), so all fees are collected from the employers – who are asked to pay a modest sum of seven shekels, collected by reverse SMS when they close the deal to hire someone.

It’s really an ingeniously simple idea – so much so you would have thought it already existed. But it doesn’t! Even more – the idea is genuinely Israeli. I read somewhere that Tel Aviv is one of the best cities for temping and odd jobs. Meaning that First’s idea is bound to be a winner. Good choice, Exit’09 judges!

first

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If you ever wondered where new internet ideas come from – they come from places like the minds of the people who entered the Exit ‘09 contest. The contest, sponsored by a slew of Israeli companies (chief among them Israeli development house Sergata) is open to anyone with a good idea – and if the idea is good enough to get into the contest, they could win a “startup package” worth $250,000 (including $100,000 in cash)! Even better – the format of the contest is a sort of “reality TV” show, where fans of startup ideas can vote for their favorites, with a panel of judges (top people from Google Israel, IBM, The Marker, and others) picking the winner.

Most of the 26 contestants put up a video on the Exit ‘09 site describing their idea or technology. I wrote about the contest in a Jerusalem Post article (which you can see here), but here I wanted to say something about the videos (ie, the ideas) – which got me thinking about the whole business of “innovation.”

There were a couple of really original ideas – one entrepreneur wants to put up a site where people who wear hearing aids can adjust them using a website, another plans a “pet interface” site for dogs and cats who are at home all day alone (they can communicate with their masters, or even with other pets!). Another site would provide a “virtual shrink” for counseling and coaching.

But many of the other ideas seemed to be very similar to already existing web sites and services. So, if the contest was based on “innovation” – having a really good, different idea – many of the contenders wouldn’t have qualified to be in the contest, based on what I could see.

But modern “innovation” – the kind that makes you hundreds of millions on the internet – isn’t necessarily just about having a unique idea. It can be about having a unique twist on an existing idea. It’s about the packaging, the marketing, the way you convince people to use it – the way YOU see it being used. You can take an existing idea and tweak it, turning it into something big – much bigger than the original idea you were tweaking. That’s really all you need!

Believe it or not, one of the biggest “breakthrough ideas” of the internet era – distributing music over a network – is actually a century old! The Tel-Musici Company of Wilmington, Delaware, was, according to this article, streaming music directly to users’ homes in 1909 – via the telephone! Customers would call Tel-Musici and order a selection, and for three cents (seven cents for lengthy operas), the company would stream music to the customer’s phonograph, via a special transmitter connecting the phone and the phonograph that “intensifies and enlarges the volume of sound of all phonographic records but eliminates the metallic, rasping and grating features which have heretofore constituted an objectionable feature of phonographic concerts.”

I couldn’t find any references on whether Napster inventor Shawn Fanning was aware of Tel-Musici, but I wouldn’t be surprised if he was. And there are lots of other examples of successful programs that conquered the market from less well-marketed previous offerings.

In other words, to succeed in the internet business, you don’t necessarily even need an original idea! And one thing I get from watching the videos on the Exit ‘09 site is that you don’t necessarily need much technical knowledge either (many of the presenters say straight out that they don’t have a technical background). And in fact, the premise of Exit ‘09 is that the winning idea gets lots of help from the dozen or so companies offering programming, marketing, and branding help. All that gets outsourced to the service providers. In other words, the only thing you have to bring to the table is the “tweak” – the little twist that will put even an already existing idea into a new light. Exit ‘09 proves it (and a number of friends of mine who began successful startups prove it too).

Wow! It that’s all it takes, what’s stopping us from raking in the bucks?!?

exitblog

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Usually, mixing business with politics isn’t such a good idea if you’re trying to sell somebody something. You never know whom you’re going to offend, and the customer (and cash) is king.

But if you’re just giving away your product, I guess politics can play a role – maybe a big one. That’s definitely the philosophy of Zvi Schreiber, CEO of G.ho.st. When you hold an opening event at a gap in the security fence (“separation wall”) separating Jerusalem from Bethlehem, you’re wading ankle deep in one of the hottest political issues in the region.

That’s exactly what Schreiber did, launching the final beta version of his G.ho.st virtual operating system at “this symbol of division,” according to special guest Tony Blair, who added “I’ve done many launches in my life, but this ranks as about the most unusual.”

With G.ho.st, users can store up to 15 gigs of files, and use an office suite with their files, browse the internet, and access their e-mail from any computer in the world. User accounts are stored in the “cloud,” the one run by Amazon, and you can log into your G.ho.st  account anywhere.

Why the security fence? Because most of the programming for G.ho.st  is being done by programmers who live in Ramallah! G.ho.st’s corporate offices are in Israel proper, but Schreiber has outsourced almost all of the G.ho.st  architecture work to programmers in the Palestinian Authority (according to what he told me). “I’m perhaps the only CEO in the world who can’t visit the company’s main office, even though it’s like 15 kilometers my house in Jerusalem,” Schreiber said at the event.

In my interview with him, Schreiber described how staff meetings are held in a gas station near Jericho. “We’ve even had company meetings there, since it’s the only place we can get together that both sets of employees can get to,” he said. But it’s worth it, he added; “I’ve always wanted to make a contribution to coexistence, and a high-tech firm with offices in Israel and the PA seemed like a good way to do it.”

What to make of G.ho.st? The question come up because there are those who are accusing G.ho.st of “exploitation” in the guise of “promoting coexistence.” Why? Schreiber says his PA programmers are well compensated – “I’m not aware of any other company in the PA that gives out options to its employees,” Schreiber told me – but for sure the salaries those benefits are based on are going to be significantly less than he would pay to Israeli employees.

In that sense, Schreiber has succeeded in replacing Bangalore with Ramallah. If you think there’s nothing wrong with exporting jobs to the Far East, then there’s nothing wrong with exporting jobs to the Palestinian Authority; if you believe employers have a responsibility to their national entities and the citizens of the country that afforded them the opportunity to be in a position to employ others, then you have a problem with G.ho.st.

In addition, because the Palestinians are such bitter enemies of Israel, some would argue that Schreiber is wrong on two counts: One, he’s providing jobs to Palestinians who want to see us dead (or maybe just deported), and two, he’s exporting jobs that Israelis would be happy to do during these recessionary times.

According to this AFP article, most of the Ramallah employees work for a third of the pay of their Israeli counterparts. Quoting Dror Globerman of Ma’ariv, the article says:

“I think the incentives are definitely there. (The West Bank) is cheap and close, and Palestinian engineers are talented people.”

So it’s all about the money for G.ho.st – or is it? The AFP article goes on to say:

However, the persistent threat of political instability still encourages most Israeli entrepreneurs to look to calmer parts of the globe. “No one can guarantee that a Palestinian engineer will always be able to reach his office or have an Internet connection,” Dror says. “Israelis are used to having these fears addressed to them by foreign investors.”

In other words, Ramallah is not Bangalore. Given the volatile political and security situation, work could be suspended due to an IDF action in response to a terror attack at any time, or (probably more likely) a shootout between Hamas and Fatah troops near the G.ho.st offices. (Given the rampant crime in the PA, I wonder if Schreiber has to pay protection money to criminal gangs – or the “official” police -  in order to be left alone? See, that’s a question you can’t ask a CEO!). For dealing with those issues, Schreiber deserves a lot of credit.

And G.ho.st fits right in with Binyamin Netanyahu’s declared desire to help the PA economically – the idea being that once Palestinians get a taste of the “good life” in Israel, they’ll have a strong incentive to play peace ball. That there is something to this is clear when you speak to Arabs in Wadi Ara (as I did) about what they think of proposals to move the border and rope them into Palestinian Authority controlled areas.

So what do you think the Palestinians think about all this? Do they feel “colonialized” or “exploited” by Schreiber? Not according to this article by Ma’an, the official PA news agency.

The project, three years in the making, was funded by the Benchmark Capital Fund and Noa Rothman’s foundation, and hired Palestinian and Israeli developers trained in local universities to push forward the development.

“It was a program aiming to bring some of the prosperity and skills to Palestinians that have brought success to the Israeli [IT] industry,” one organizer said.

The program’s launch, in front of Israel’s separation wall in the Bethlehem-area town of Beit Jala, focused on the potential of creativity and economic development for the creation of a stable future for both Israel and Palestine.

Of course, there was the requisite paragraph afterwards on how there needs to be a full Israeli withdrawal to the pre-1967 borders and the return of descendants of refugees, etc. etc. But it sounds to me like Ma’an knows a good thing when it sees it. As the AFP article quotes Ramallah office director Khaled Ayyash as saying:

“We are creating jobs, we are getting good salaries, and we can work here in Palestine instead of going abroad.”

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At first it sounded like another dream deal: An Israeli company sold a one third interest in a medical device it developed to a British-Taiwanese company for $370 million – making the total value of SafeSky’s LifeKeeper Patch over $1 billion. The deal, between SafeSky and Micro-Star International (MSI), is one of the biggest ever in relative terms for an Israeli hi-tech industry.

skin-patch-vaccinesAccording to the company, the LifeKeeper patch can read information about the wearer’s medical state – recording data such as body temperature, heart rate and rhythms, blood pressure, and blood sugar levels. When you wear the patch, the information is transmitted via Bluetooth to a cell phone, where an application records the information. The phone program evaluates the data, and if the information being recorded indicates that that wearer is in danger of a heart attack or stroke, it can send an emergency message out to doctors or emergency services, who can then locate the wearer using the phone’s GPS capabilities. (I’m proud to say I had the first full English-language report on this, which you can read here)

Sounds like a medical miracle! And the fact that a company was willing to stake so much money for just a partial ownership seems like a miracle, too – in fact, it’s pretty miraculous that any company would have that kind of money around today!

Maybe it’s jealousy or politics (one of the co-inventors of the patch is said to be a good friend of Prime Minister Netanyahu), but a smattering of reports have appeared in the Israeli press over the past day or so questioning whether there was a deal, or whether the patch even exists! This, despite assurances by the owners that the deal was done and the check from MSI is already in the hands of SafeSky’s Tel Aviv lawyers. In an interview for a print publication (whose name I am not authorized to reveal online!) the interviewer asked co-inventor Amos Bouchnik about the reports, and he dismissed them:

“We’re not paying attention to them at all. We’ve kept the device under wraps at the request of the purchaser in order to ensure maximum industrial security. MSI will conduct a presentation in Tel Aviv in the near future and demonstrate it to doctors. The company has been examining this device for the past 18 months and it is indeed a device that will change the face of medicine.”

SafeSky is a private company, it made a deal for a product it owns, and it doesn’t have to reveal any details of its work – including to the media. But apparently the media doesn’t agree. Channel One ran a rather snide report questioning whether the device even exists! As if Bouchnik and his partner Arik Klein (Netanyahu’s friend) made the whole thing up! Note that both are very successful dentists, of all things – entrepreneurial dentists, who own chains of dental clinics and are involved in several other businesses. SafeSky, which they wholly own, has other products as well, such as “a better solar panel,” which can collect 100 times more energy than panels currently in use.

Not only do the two own the exclusive patents to the patch: They have never taken VC or other investment money, meaning they don’t owe anybody anything.

And therein probably lies the root of their spate of bad press, if I know my Israeli reporters. Probably some goon demanded to see the patch in action, and Bouchnik and Klein told them no way – to which the reporter got very offended and threatened to do a hatchet job on them. Unimpressed, the two sent the reporter his or her way, and s/he made good on the threat by running a nasty story questioning not only their ethics and reliability, but their sanity (as if they made the whole thing up!)

And if you think I’m being too hard on the reporter, I invite you to listen to the news magazines on Israel’s second radio channel (Reshet Bet), at 9 AM, 10 AM, Noon, and 5 PM. In the many live interviews with newsmakers they conduct, the speakers – ranging from politicians to plain old Joes – have to contend with constant interruptions, innuendo, and overall nastiness and rudeness. I mean it; speakers get interrupted by the hosts at nearly every sentence. It’s as if the hosts have to hear themselves speak every few seconds, in order to make sure everyone knows they’re in charge! That’s the caliber of reporter in Israel’s media – and making up a story just to get back at a company that doesn’t want to play ball with them is definitely not out of the realm of possibility. (Note: Picture is NOT of the LifeKeeper Patch, but for illustrative purposes only!)

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Lest you think the Arab boycott of Israeli goods has passed from the earth, rest assured that it has not – and its latest victim is Israeli cellphone application maker Trixcell. This is the company that makes professional-looking magic tricks for cellphones that anyone can do. I’ve interviewed the guys from Trixcell (Shlomi Grandes and Menny Lindenfeld, who is a world-renowned professional magician) a couple of times, and have written a couple of articles and blog posts about them.

The tricks are really good (check out the videos on their site), and what’s most amazing to me is that this is the first time in history that sleight of hand is now possible for everyone; before, you had to spend weeks, if not years, perfecting the kinds of tricks you can perform using your cellphone and Trixcell’s illusions. What Photoshop did for graphic art and Quark xPress did for page layout, Trixcell is doing for magic – namely, putting it in the grasp of the non-professional, thus breathing new life into it and opening up many more markets for the profession.

But in my latest conversation with the Trixcell guys, they told me that their applications – which are sold in 90 countries around the world – have been banned in Egypt, because someone figured out that they were an Israeli company. Apparently they left the name of one of their developers in the credits of an application, and an Egyptian customer of Mobinil, the country’s largest cell service provider, complained that there were Israelis involved in the tricks. Not wishing to seem too “Jew-loving,” apparently, Mobinil dumped the Trixcell tricks. Grandes told me that it never occurred to him and Lindenfeld to hide the origins of their applications, and they had no intention of doing so either. He also told me a couple of things I promised not repeat; his official comment was “Israel has a peace treaty with Egypt, and even if they criticize Israel there, Trixcell only deals with business, not politics, so it’s a very unfortunate reaction on their part.”

Egyptians may be willing to boycott Israeli magic tricks – and Ariel detergent, since it shares a name with a former Israeli prime minister, and has a logo sort of looks like a Star of David (Proctor and Gamble, no stranger to logo lunacy, changed Ariel’s logo in order to de-emphasize the ‘Israeli’ connection). Maybe none use Motorola phones, because of the company’s Israeli connections, preferring Nokias or Sony-Ericssons.

But how do they handle Intel? I mean, since most of Intel’s processors were designed at least partly in Israel (nearly all of the company’s laptop processors were), and since so many computers carry an “Intel Inside” logo, what computers do Arab Israel-haters use? AMD? Well, some boycott sites do instruct their lackeys to do just that. But then, they probably didn’t hear about AMD’s eventual intention to open a research center in Israel, since “AMD considers Israel as a center of knowledge and innovation, and we do consider making a strategic investment here.” But you have to believe that at least some people – even among those advocating boycotts of Israel – are using Intel-based computers. If you ask me, it’s chutzpah of the first degree – using the computer or laptop brought to you by Israeli brainpower to advocate a boycott of that same Israeli product! Bizarro!

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When politicians run back and forth overseas to discuss pressing world problems, the press says that there was a “flurry of diplomatic activity.” In the case of Israel and Iran, there are many who believe that “flurry” will turn into a full-blown blizzard (with a subsequent “nuclear winter?”).

Like everything else in our wired world, the business of predicting has been taken over by “the experts” – in this case, the prediction markets, who use “The Wisdom of Crowds” to figure out the future. For example, right now at Intrade, which runs prediction markets for almost anything, from politics to wine vintages, has two Israel-related topics right now: Will Hamas recognize Israel’s right to exist (nobody seems to think so) and if Israel or the US will attack Iran.

On the latter question, the predictions are all over the place, depending on which site you look at. The folks at Hubdub seem to think so, while at Intrade, they’re not so sure. Inkling users are much more optimistic that no war will take place. And at StrategyPage, where the watchword is “many minds make quick work of uncertainty,” the many minds don’t even believe that Iran is anywhere close to obtaining nuclear weapons! (They’re pretty bullish on gold, though – I guess they didn’t read my post questioning the whole gold mania thing).

So, is there wisdom in crowds? Most definitely, say people who know the business – such as Noam Danon of Qmarkets, and Israeli company that provides prediction network technology to small and medium sized businesses. I interviewed Danon last summer for Israeli21C, and he told me about the dozens of large corporations using them to set business policy – very successfully. As he says:

“Over the past four or five years, prediction markets have become a buzzword in many large organizations; Google, HP, Nokia, Siemens, the Best Buy retail chain, and many others use them to get an idea of where they should be investing their time and money. All those companies have large departments that specialize in working out prediction markets within the organization.”

Why would prediction markets give an accurate forecast for businesses, but not for Middle East conflicts? Obviously, money is a big motivator – when you have to decide how and where to invest assets, you are going to take the whole prediction process far more seriously. As far as Israel and Iran are concerned, the speculation either way could indicate that people look at the issue academically – after all, there have been no nuclear attacks since World War II, and it seem inconceivable that anyone would want to go down in history as being behind the next one (even the Iranians, North Koreans and Pakistanis, apparently). That, it seems to me, is the verdict of the crowd – with guaranteed MAD (Mutual Assured Destruction) if Iran threatens/attacks Israel and/or vice-versa, both sides are doing a lot of “blustering” (another weather word!). Let’s hope the crowd is right on this one!

nuclear_fireball

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Israeli hi-tech may be down – but it certainly isn’t out. That’s the conclusion you would have to reach if you spent time at Tuesday’s Israel Venture Association annual conference. The IVA brings together investors – VC’s and angels – with Israeli companies looking for funding. Over the past couple of years, the organization has been responsible for getting tens of millions in funding for Israeli companies. At the IVA convention, investors and industry folk meet, with the idea that some deals will emerge from the balagan.

While I attended some of the sessions, I found the “startup pavilion” most interesting. While many of the companies presenting in the organized sessions – with sessions on gaming, telecom, cleantech, mobile, and “traditional” areas like semiconductors – were startups too, they were “mature” startups, who were already well funded and, in many cases, already making money. The startups I spoke too were far younger, although some were on the verge of signing contracts (they said) in the areas they specialized in. Some of the more promising ideas: a company that has figured out a way to conduct wide-scale and accurate TV and radio ratings, a better system for oil and water exploration, and an easy way to move pictures between different social network photo sites.

There were also in-depth sessions, as I mentioned, with VC’s choosing companies in their portfolios to present their technology at the show. I went to a couple of them to see the presentations, as did many others. I made sure to check out the Cleantech presentations, sponsored by the California-Israel Chamber of Commerce. Very nice, with discussions of what might be one day great technologies that will save the environment. Of course, with Cleantech a hot area for investments – private and government – the session was jam-packed.

But the discussion was a bit too theoretical for me – lots of “ifs” and “we believes” and “at some point in the futures.” In other words, there are a lot of great ideas and a lot of possibilities – as well as a lot of speculation. A little bored (to tell the truth), I moved on to another session – the one in the next room, called “Semiconductors.”

freescale_semiconductorWell, if I was bored at Cleantech, I’d probably end up taking a nap at Semiconductors! I mean, could there be a drier, less “modern hi-tech” topic for discussion? Apparently, most of the people at the show felt the way I did, because there were barely two dozen people in the room, as opposed to the couple of hundred in the Cleantech room (as well as at the other presentations). As it turned out, though, there was plenty to hear in Semiconductors – plenty of great ideas that are much more likely to change the world – and make their investors a lot more money – far more quickly than Cleantech investments will, at least for now. Let’s just say that the two companies I saw presentations for – Sandlinks, and especially Siverge – have amazing products that will really impact on society.

The lesson? DON’T follow the crowd – it’s usually as lost as you are! For Israel, “old,” tried and true hi-tech is where it’s still at!

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I wasn’t looking to become the “poster boy” for Jewish-Arab coexistence when I set out north with my wife last Friday. After 19 years of marriage, we couldn’t resist an invitation from friends celebrating a family event in a Galilee hotel over Shabbat. Our 18 year old daughter, on leave from her National Service job in the Herzl Museum in Jerusalem, was primed to watch our three year old, together with their siblings (15, 14, and 11). Needless to say, we were extremely worried about how “the baby” would take the absence of both parents for the first time in her life (at least one of us had always been with her when the other was traveling or away), but as it turned out, that was to be the least of our worries – the kids, including the youngest, all had a blast.

Other troubles were waiting for us down the road. To get to northern Israel from our part of the country (western Shomron/Sharon), the most efficient route is to take Route 6 north to its current terminus, and then Road 65 east and north. That road, the easternmost within “Green Line” Israel, passes through an area called Wadi Ara, part of a geographic construct called “the triangle.” Its residents are almost exclusively Muslim Arabs, and the centerpiece of the area is a town called Um el-Faham. The most recent news stories about this area came out a couple of months ago, when several Israeli activists got permission to hold an “Israeli flag parade” in the town; the High Court authorized the parade, after police had turned down requests to hold it over and over. It turned out police were right, to some extent; there was minor rioting, and police worked hard to keep the small group of Jews and the much larger group of local residents protesting the parade at bay.

In general, though, Jews – especially people “like us,” observant residents of what some would call a “settlement,” would stay far away from Um el-Faham, and probably never even get within 10 kilometers of the place – if not for Road 65. As it turned out, however, that is where my car decided to break down. What happened and who’s to blame (I have a whole theory about that) are less important than the fact that the car essentially became undriveable an hour and a half before Shabbat – when we still had an hour or so to go to get to our destination!

Kids in yeshivas and day schools – and even secular kids here in Israel – all know the tales of how people sacrifice for the Sabbath, dropping valuable merchandise, money, wallets, etc. in order not to violate the holy day. But in those stories, the traveler always seems to be in a forest or other relatively quiet or calm area, and since in the old days travelers could be on the road for days at a time, they usually carried at least some provisions with them. We, on the other hand, were in the heart of one of the biggest Arab areas in Israel. The date, it’s useful to note, was May 15 – the date Israeli Arabs commemorate as “Nakba Day.”

ummap

But all that was a million miles away from our minds. We were preparing for a fun weekend, our first chance to see how the “other half” (the half whose kids stay home when the parents go away!) live. A/C running, music on the radio, it was like a dream. And then the nightmare began. It started with a “funny noise” (I should know better by now what the noises lead to!). But the car seemed OK, so I ignored it. All of the sudden, a little past a place called (I kid you not) “Al Aryan,” the car started kicking and bucking. Impossible to steer, with the temperature gauge shooting up in seconds, I figured we had to get off the road right away. But where? Fortunately, Road 65 is a major commercial strip, so there are businesses and strip malls every few kilometers. Now I needed a gas station – some place to park the car and check out the problem.

And that’s when I met Musa – the Um el-Faham mechanic who saved the day. Which story I will relate in part two (when I get around to writing it!).

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